Mark Hiew (more chengdu)|
Located along a nondescript strip of South Dianxin Street, just north of Yulin and not far from the intersection of the 1st Ring and South Renmin Road. It would be easy to pass by Fang You Hui without giving it a second glance. This would be a shame given its stereotypically humble charm and the sterling quality of its food.
It’s grey brick exterior lends an air of character, but for the most part, Fang You Hui is a straightforward, homely restaurant, strong on attentive service and free of pretension. A single traditional etching hangs in one of the several main dining rooms complimented by a hanging garden of plastic corn. Outdoor patio seating is available, covered by utilitarian tarpaulin.
Of the specialty dishes, the Shuang Jiao Chicken (28 RMB) delivered an attractive and zesty conveyance for green and red peppers, though some may find the meat-to-bone ratio slightly off putting compared to the standard Kungpao Chicken. The Qingjiao Beef, served in a gentle and sweet red sauce, was tender and smooth, its tangy flavors offset by the prickle of green pepper.
Where the restaurant really excelled was with the vegetables (6-8 RMB), which drew unanimous cheer from the table. Fresh, flavorsome, not overly oily and cooked to a, “crispy perfection.” We also found the wait staff and cooks extremely accommodating in preparing the dishes in a proper vegan manner. The fried Chang mushrooms (Suchao Chang Shugu) and Empty Heart greens (Kongxin Cai) were particularly good, as was the light and salty tofu soup.
Importantly, ice-cold beer is available for neutralizing some of that spice (8-12 RMB), and prices on the whole are extremely reasonable. Look to pay about 20-30 RMB per person. On the whole, if you’re in the mood for delicious Sichuanese fare in a low-key, unassuming environment, Fang You Hui is the place to go.