Mark Hiew (more chengdu) Vegetarianism is growing in popularity in China, a fact that many non-carnivores may find hard to believe given the tribulations often involved in ordering vegetarian in most local restaurants. Zunsheng Zen and Tea, located in the upscale Tongzilin, offers an impressively elegant vegetarian restaurant and teahouse at prices that, while certainly higher than other comparable establishments, won’t empty your purse (or wallet).
Zunsheng was established several years ago by a local owner influenced by Buddhist ideas, and elements of the religion are apparent in the statues found around the space and the do-no-harm approach taken with the menu. The restaurant is located on the second floor, looking down upon the feng shui-friendly tea house below, invitingly filled with ornate wooden shelves and furnishing. The setting exudes a considered balance of classical and modern styling. Compared to its vegetarian competitors, it feels far more sophisticated than Tianyuan, without being as coolly minimalist as Vegetarian Lifestyle.
The Chinese-only, but full picture, menu contains a balanced offering of fake meat and traditional vegetarian dishes, including local Sichuan offerings. Unfortunately, many of the dishes were not available during our visit. However, of those that we chose, none disappointed, and several were exceptional. The zizai (15RMB), a mashed potato dish with fine pieces of mushroom, carrot, and almond, proved near revelatory. Its delicate, slightly granular texture offered an organic wholesomeness unlike any standard mashed potatoes.
The twice-cooked vegetarian-style pork (shuangcui hui guo) (28RMB) was also brilliantly executed: its soy-based “fatty pork” was thinly sliced, its ground soy beans and red and green peppers creating a highly authentic version, but for the leek, which was left out for philosophical reasons (Onion, ginger, and several other strong-smelling plants are the, so-called, “five pungent spices”.) are traditionally absent from Buddhist diets as they are believed to excite the senses.
The koufu niurou (28RMB) was served cold, unusually, but this did not detract from the sweetness and satisfyingly textured fake beef, served with carrot and bamboo slices. The tea tree mushrooms (cha shu gu) (48RMB) came with a gentle flame in a light red pepper sauce, along with handsome portions of pseudo-fatty pork. All of the dishes were served promptly and were exquisitely fresh.
A variety of non-alcoholic specialty beverages are available, including Shaoxing yellow wine (hua diao) (185-415RMB) as well as teas and juices. Expect to pay around 40-60RMB each, not including alcohol. Zunsheng is a real find. It’s not just for vegetarians, but also those seeking a classy, reasonably-priced, meal in a first-rate setting.
Closed (Shawna) I tried to go to this place (sounded great from the write-up), but it's closed now.
