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Huang Shan Zhenxin Bao Dian
6am - 2am
Shazi Yan Xi Alley, Yulin District, (near Fangcao Primary School)
028 8158 6398

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Mark Hiew (more chengdu)
A friend once described baozi—those rotund, steamed little dumplings stuffed with various fillings—as the “poor man’s jiaozi,” the latter being, of course, the non-fluffy, common Chinese dumpling popular in the country’s northeast. Being the baozi devotee that I am, I found such a comparison grossly offensive. For a most fulfilling breakfast, swing by Huang Shan’s in Yulin. It’s located down an alley off Fangcao Street, which leads to Fangcao Primary School, and they offer up a wide variety of locally tailored baozi that will help even the battle between China’s two mighty dumpling forms.

Founded by friendly Anhui natives, who’ve been in Chengdu for over a decade now, this unassuming dumpling shop sells no less than eight delectable types of baozi, including the delightfully tingly mala beef, and unique chicken-juice pork variety – ji zhi xuan rou. It’s also vegetarian-friendly, with half of the varieties coming sans meat, including mushroom and cabbage – xiang gu bai cai, leek and egg – jiu cai ji dan, sweet sesame - xiang tian zhi ma and rose flower and soy - mei gui dou sha. The price for these two-bite pillows of nourishing fluffiness? One yuan for three. Mix and match as you please, as the operators are extremely accommodating.

And to answer your question, indeed, there are jiaozi, though only a single pork and cabbage variety (4RMB/long). Beyond dumplings, Huang Shan also excels in the bread (mantou) department, carrying sweet, salty, and bitter varieties (1RMB/four pieces). Round off your meal with some soy milk (1RMB) and congratulate yourself for experiencing yet another of Chengdu’s hidden neighborhood gems.

Huang’s is not a fancy place looking to impress; it keeps things simple and prices affordable. Note that after 6:00 p.m., it converts into a skewered pot – chuan chuan restaurant. Jiaozi aficionados of Chengdu: the challenge has been laid out! After digging into Huang Shan’s baozi, what say you now?

Huang Shan Zhenxin Bao Dian
Huang Shan Zhenxin Bao Dian Huang Shan Zhenxin Bao Dian